Woodland living is elemental, and at this time of the year our primary element is fire. We gravitate to the fire for warmth and food. It punctuates our day, provides ritual and rhythm. We have had Mistletoe Wood for three years and our means of making fire has developed. My brother. who works the wood with me is, frankly, a pyromaniac. Embarrassingly I started with a lighter as ignition, some rather damp dead standing and some split knotty beech.   I soon learned that I am a smoke goddess and it wants to bathe me in acrid fumes.   Subsequently I have followed my brother's lead with ferro rod, properly gleaned fingers and thumbs. and some dry split ash.   Ash die back has given us a good supply. My intrepid brother has tried so many sorts of ignition and methods it’s bewildering but upside down fires, rudiger rolls and a portable firebox are part of our repertoire. Having managed to make fire, the crucial skill is putting it out.  Our first summer in the wood was 2022 with drought and wild fires.   We made beaters, dug a pit but the real issue was water.   We have no stream or pond but we do have the Bothy roof and with some Heath Robinson guttering we now have a water butt full of emergency extinguisher, you wouldn’t want to drink it though! In autumn nothing beats a slowly cooked camenbert and a baked apple filled with mincemeat and a splash of beechwood noyau.   Fire is truly our friend. [caption id="attachment_41635" align="aligncenter" width="675"] smoke goddess ?[/caption]

The advantage of charcoal is that it burns hotter than wood, is far lighter, and produces less smoke and steam - so it's useful for smelting iron or cooking barbecues. You can buy it ready-made, usually imported and often from unsustainable sources, or you can buy locally from people working their own woodlands. Another option is to make your own using a small charcoal maker which Paul Bradford demonstrated to me.  Paul and Lisa do regular charcoal making demonstrations in Kent with their Community Interest Company (CIC), Willow Bushcraft. They use a specially made cylindrical piece of kit to show school children how charcoal is made, and as they sit around the fire they can discuss the processes required as well as the fact that charcoal making goes back to the iron-age.  This charcoal-making device was bought online for about £40 and Paul reckons he can get 30-40 burns out of the charcoal maker before the metal gives way. The processes are straightforward: he loads it with hardwood pieces typically about 1-2 inches in size and closes the end. While I was watching he used oak but charcoal can also be made from hazel, ash, birch, beech or ash. He then puts it on a fire - crucially the wood inside is heated in the absence of oxygen. Initially the moisture comes out as steam and next the wood releases flammable gases which burn off in yellow or blue flames whilst inside the charcoal is being produced. Paul says that although the instructions say it will be done in 2 hours, he finds it takes more like 3-4 hours for a burn. In any event it shouldn't be opened until it has cooled down much later, perhaps the next morning. Paul told me about the many uses charcoal has - obviously it can be burn but it is also used for drawing, for making toothpaste and for some cosmetics. It is used in face-washes and exfoliating scrubs - the properties that really help are its ability to absorb toxins as well as its natural gritty texture. It is also used in some deodorants because of its ability to absorb moisture and neutralise odors. Historically charcoal was used to make gunpowder along with sulphur and potassium nitrate. It can also be a filter for purifying water and has medical applications such as treating poisoning and overdosing because it absorbs certain toxins. It is a special material and quite remarkable how it is naturally occuring and the method of processing is so simple. To make 1.3 kg of charcoal in Paul's machine you need to put in about 6.5 kg of wood, which illustrates how much water by weight is contained in wood, but it also indicates how effective it is to burn charcoal to get to high temperatures - you are not wasting energy evaporating the water and the texture of charcoal allows the oxygen to get in for a hotter burn.  

High up in the Chilterns stands Mistletoe Wood, a semi natural ancient woodland.  It is comprised of beech and oak with a smattering of other native species. My brother and I have been custodians of these four acres for nearly three years.  Today, it has a large open glade we use for social forestry.  It has a hard fought for bothy, which put the planners in a spin (they were eventually won over by our woodland management plan), a fire pit and benching.  The latter planked from the first tree we had to take down and various tree huggers, which hold tarp or shade sails depending on the English weather. We use this area to entertain, educate and encourage and it has been home to : forestry first aid,  a murder mystery and  our annual Wood Moot when local woodlanders come round, share lunch and talk all things woody, whilst trying to avoid the harvest mites.  The other three and half acres are largely left alone, we beat the bounds at least twice a week looking out for danger and excitement, a 200-year-old beech came down in Storm Henk which was a surprise. We have removed 20 trees from a massive old beech, that was toppling near the dell [where the children play], to some medium-size ash which had die back. We process and extract them using only hand tools and our trusty trolley “Dolly”.  The woodland is blessed with the most wonderful fungi including delicious trompe de mort and we do entertain foragers and learn from them. This summer we have had the first honey from our beehives.   In Mistletoe, it is more about what we don’t do than what we do!  

Lisa Bradford and her husband Paul run Willow Bushcraft a non-for-profit enterprise. They borrow a woodland in Kent owned by Woodlands.co.uk, and here Lisa writes about making a “Bender Chair”. Crafting a Masterpiece: This is how two students built a unique “Bender Chair” from hazel wood.    Creativity and craftsmanship came together in an extraordinary project undertaken by two dedicated students from a local school. These two students find it difficult in a mainstream school setting so attend a unit attached to the school. Over the course of a term, the two students transformed raw hazel rods into a stunning bender chair, showcasing both their hard work and newfound woodworking skills. The Inspiration for this journey began with a simple yet ambitious idea: to create a piece of furniture using traditional woodworking techniques. Inspired by Ben Law’s Woodland Craft book the natural beauty and flexibility of hazel wood, the students decided to build a bender chair. This type of chair, known for its distinctive curved lines and rustic charm, became the perfect canvas for their creative efforts.  The process involved coppicing hazel rods which had to be gathered from the woods. Both students learned the ancient technique of coppicing, a sustainable method of harvesting wood that encourages new growth. They explored March Wood, in Kent, to select and cut the perfect hazel rods, each one carefully chosen for its flexibility and strength.Next they assembled the chair by spending a couple of hours every week to their project, working with patience and precision. They crafted the frame first, measuring and cutting the hazel to size and ensuring the frame was sturdy and well-balanced. Week by week, the chair started to take shape. With their hazel rods in hand, the chair-makers began the meticulous process of shaping the chair. This involved bending the freshly cut rods into the desired forms for the seat, back, and armrests and tacking them into place. After weeks of diligent work, the students finally completed their bender chair. The result was nothing short of remarkable. The chair, with its gracefully curved lines and natural finish, was a testament to their hard work and creativity.  But the project provided the students with more than just a beautiful piece of furniture: it was a learning experience that taught them valuable skills in woodworking. More importantly, it gave them a profound sense of achievement and pride. They had started with a vision and, through perseverance and teamwork, brought that vision to life. Looking back on their journey, the students expressed immense satisfaction. They had not only learned about woodworking but also about the importance of patience, attention to detail, and sustainable practices. Their success with the bender chair has inspired them to take on more projects, and they hope to continue exploring the world of traditional craftsmanship. Forest Schools such as Willow Bushcraft are brilliant for hard-to-reach students who struggle in traditional classroom settings, and participating in forest school offers a transformative experience. Immersed in the natural environment, these students engage in hands-on, practical projects that ignite their curiosity and foster a sense of achievement. The forest school setting allows them to learn through doing, tapping into their innate creativity and problem-solving skills. This alternative educational approach not only enhances their self-esteem and confidence but also helps them develop essential life skills such as teamwork, perseverance, and adaptability. The “bender chair” demonstrates how outdoor learning can inspire a love for learning in even the most disengaged students.

Big Bertha, Darth Vader, and Inchy are just some of the names people use for their chainsaws, mauls, and winches. Others, of course, only ever use the correct name for their forestry equipment, but they are missing out on the advantages of nicknaming. Apart from entertainment and exercising a dry sense of humor, there are some good reasons for naming your forestry kit. By using personalized names, you can agree on the right tool for the job. In the case of one forester with two hydraulic jacks, he called the larger one Jack and the smaller one Jill. It’s useful to distinguish like this if you are asking someone to bring a particular tool from the car or van. Another benefit of naming is to remind yourself of the dangers of certain tools. Hammers are sometimes called finger finders, and those heavy post knockers are sometimes called “Clonkers” because of their tendency to clonk the user on the head. Some tool nicknames are just more intuitive than the more formal names, with some woodworkers calling a spirit level a “bubble stick.” One forester calls the wedge used in felling her “Cheesey.” Others are just short names and therefore easier to say, such as “Thor” rather than sledgehammer, smashing three syllables into one. Most foresters enjoy a bit of quirkiness, and names sometimes refer to where the tool was acquired (“my auction saw”) or something about its history. One bandsaw user had a blue safety switch on his saw, but when he replaced it, the same button was green, so he forever referred to it as the “green blue button.” Perhaps we name our forestry tools because they become our trusted friends, and we want to show affection and respect, or maybe it's for practical reasons. Do you name yours?

We had been looking for a wood preferably with a open area for sometime.   We had a look at a few that were not right for us, thinking it was never going to happen.   One day I opened an email and there it was - in September 2022.  Golden Hill Wood, I immediately called Stuart, the area manager, and we arranged to view it.   Well,  it was just perfect and literally five minutes away from our home, so the ball started to roll. It was time for some research on equipment, we got some good advice locally, so a chainsaw, brushcutter, and other equipment was purchased.  Having a walk around with Stuart, taking on some good advice, we then started to work on our new heaven. Golden Hill Wood has some old broadleaf trees but mainly spruce, fur and a few Douglas Firs amongst others.  The wood not been cared for in many years, so I set to taking lower branches off to head height, a few had to be removed including a couple of tactical removals with trees broken half way up, removing the many brambles that had stored from the ground to the canopy in a web like manner.  I found myself pulling brambles from one tree only to see I'm pulling a tree further away as there was so much of it.   Patience is a virtue and I got there.   It is not the end, but everything is now manageable so I have a few hours work and then a chill out. I have a couple of tarpaulin areas which the granddaughters just love and embrace and lend their little hands.   When Roe or Red Deer are about, we have two sets of Buzzards along with Red Kite and. of course, Bunnies.  We spent New Years Eve 2022-23 there and I've made a wild camp under a basher. I'd recommend anyone taking a wood on.  It is so peaceful and calming.

We purchased Knox Wood in August 2023, part of Boltonmuir Wood, an old woodland site on fairly boggy ground in East Lothian. Our five acres are split 50% almost pure birch (Silver and Downy) regenerating [about 20 years old] and 50% mature Scots Pine that is well thinned over mixed natural regeneration.  All of the site has previously been used for commercial forestry so there is plenty of natural regeneration from Sitka Spruce, Douglas Fir, Western Hemlock, Silver Fir and Larch. Some oak, rowan, hawthorn and beech regeneration is also present. Roe deer use the site but are not having much impact on the trees, just ticks to be aware of.   Plenty of mosses, ferns and bracken that indicate acidic soil conditions. Our plan is to improve the site for biodiversity and use some birch for green wood working.  So far we have been taking out non-native conifer regen, leaving a few that are suitable for bird nesting and to provide a bit of evergreen shelter. A few Rhododendrons to eliminate as well, easy enough using the lever and mulch technique. We will create some standing deadwood and add to the fairly good level of deadwood from previous birch thinning that is now well rotten.  We will add a few native species, such as Aspen and maybe more Willows for weaving.   Also hoping to grow some edible fungi on site, there are wild mushrooms and I am sure plenty of people already roam around there collecting them.  As Alien Spoons, I teach green wood working so will thin out the birch for spoon carving, shrink pots, bowls and other treen.  Maybe make some besoms and other products with it as well.    [caption id="attachment_41045" align="aligncenter" width="675"] Birch regenerating[/caption]  

A recent article in the New Scientist suggests that staking newly planted trees may be pointless for trees that are planted in gardens and parks.  James Wong argues that stakes are often not needed because trees have a natural tendency to grow straight and vertical. Indeed, staking may cause damage because the tie that connects the post and the tree can cut into the tree.  Also the tie-up to the stake creates a weak point where a sapling can snap in high winds. Even if it doesn’t snap, it develops an unnaturally thick trunk at that point to stop it from breaking. Despite this, you might still want to use a stake in a garden or park for reasons unrelated to the growth of the tree - to avoid it being run over by a lawn mower or accidentally walked into. For forestry planting, using stakes is a very different matter. Stakes are easy to spot and help forestry contractors to find their new trees for weeding and for “beating up” - the odd phrase used by foresters to refer to replanting where trees have died. Using stakes can also help make the trees grow straight which is important for producing top-quality timber. However, the most important function of tree stakes in most new woodland planting is to keep tree guards vertical and securely in position. Most stakes for tree planting use treated softwood and are sawn, but there is a case for using longer-lasting sweet chestnut pales made by splitting. Such stakes are readily and cheaply available from suppliers in East Sussex and Kent. These stakes are strong and easier to bang into hard, stony ground. As well as being long-lasting, sweet chestnut does not need treating so for those using biodegradable tree guards and wanting to “leave no trace”, these may be the best stakes for new planting. Using untreated stakes like this avoids putting extra chemicals into the environment. Another option, often used for new planting of hedgerow trees, is using bamboo canes to hold the saplings and their guards, usually very light spiral guards. Canes as stakes have the added advantage that they are light and easy to transport: when you are planting any new trees there is lots of material to move around the site - guards, young trees, stakes and spades. getting ready for some serious planting